PDF User Manual

  1. Home
  2. Manuals
  3. ClearSpan 104450 Instruction Manual

ClearSpan 104450 Instruction Manual

104448\ 104447\ 104449\ 104451\ 104452\ 104454\ 104453

Made by: ClearSpan
Type: Instruction Manual
Category: Tent
Pages: 15
Size: 0.51 MB


Download PDF User Manual

Full Text Searchable PDF User Manual

background image

Instruction Manual

Poly Shelters

for the ClearSpan


Sunblocker Pavilion

SKU #104447 21' Wide x 16' Long
SKU #104448 21' Wide x 24' Long
SKU #104449 21' Wide x 32' Long
SKU #104450 21' Wide x 40' Long
SKU #104451 21' Wide x 48' Long
SKU #104452 21' Wide x 56' Long
SKU #104453 21' Wide x 64' Long
SKU #104454 21' Wide x 72' Long

© 2005 ClearSpan


All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited without written permission.
Rev: 26 Jan 05

Note: Photo may be of a different but similar model


background image


Thank you for purchasing the ClearSpan


 Poly Shelter. We appreciate your patronage. We hope 

you enjoy building and utilizing your shelter. Please read this entire instruction manual before 
starting to assemble your shelter. If you require assistance during the construction process you may 
call us at 1-



  A Word About Safety

Just as we want you to be pleased with your assembled shelter, we don


t want you to get hurt in the 

process of building it! Our suggestions include the following:


• Wear eye protection when drilling and power-screwing.


• Wear head protection when working with/under heavy parts including metal tubing.


• Wear gloves when handling metal tubing due to sharp or rough ends.


• Use a portable GFCI when working with corded power tools.


• Never erect a shelter directly under power lines. 


• Be careful not to drive anchors into buried power cables.


• Do not climb on the shelter or its frame. It is not designed to support human weight.


• If the shelter is enclosed, provide proper and adequate ventilation.


• Do not store hazardous materials in the shelter without proper ventilation and precautions.


• If both ends are covered, provide proper ingress and egress to prevent entrapment.


• Do not occupy the shelter during very high winds, hurricanes, or tornadoes.


• If shelter is moved after construction, inspect shelter thoroughly before reuse.


• Use common sense at all times.




  Suggested Tools

Before you start to build your shelter you should assemble the following tools:





• Fine Point Marker to mark locations on tubing


• Step ladder tall enough to safely work at the height of your shelter


• Two or more 30-foot pieces of rope


• Allen Wrench Set

Page 2


background image

  IMPORTANT - Read Anchoring Instructions

You must read the anchoring instructions packed with your kit prior to shelter assembly!

For permanent installations, we recommend using ground posts at the bottoms of all legs. 
They not only anchor your shelter but also make your pavilion easier to assemble. 

  Selecting a Location

It is important to select a proper location for your poly shelter. While the location may have been 
predetermined before you even ordered your shelter, you may want to “improve” the location before 
starting the assembly process.

One of the most important considerations is that the location should be level. If it is not, the shelter


frame will not assemble or sit properly. If your location is not level, you should consider grading it 
before building on it. Another alternative is to provide footings which are level to support the shelter. 
These could be pressure-treated posts, precast concrete blocks, or poured in place footings.

Drainage is another important consideration. Rain flowing off your shelter should have a natural path 
to flow away from the shelter and not under or into it.

  Section A - Unpack & Identify Parts

Step 1:

 Before you begin to assemble your shelter you should first unpack the contents of your 

shipment. During this process you will learn what all of the various parts look like. 


 We recommend you start by laying out the contents of your shipment in an orderly fashion 

as shown in the photograph below. Note that your parts may look different from those shown.

Step 2:

 Carefully go through the bill of material that came with your shelter and verify that you 

have all the required parts.


 It is not necessary to open the plastic bags and count all of the fasteners at this time.

Page 3


background image

  Parts Identification

Note: Illustrations are not to scale.

Page 4

Pipe (only swaged is shown)

Swivel Socket


Ball Tie Down

Rafter Sections

(all pieces

not shown)

Tek Screw

Ground Post



Socket T & Cross

Straight Coupling

2 Socket Cross






background image

  Assembly Diagrams

Your assembled shelter will be similar to the photo below:

Before installing your shade cover, you will assemble the frame:

Note: The number of rafters shown above may not match your shelter

Page 5


background image

  Section B - String Lines for Posts (optional, recommended)

Step 1:

 Once you have determined where your pavilion will be located, start by driving the first 

corner post. To do this, first install the post driver tool in the top of the post to protect it from 
being damaged. The top of the post should be 1' above finished grade when driven.


: Pre-drilled holes in posts should be inside-to-outside if you wish to install base boards.

Step 2:

 Measure the exact length of your shelter from the first post to locate the post at the far end  

on the same side of the frame. Drive this post into the ground only a few inches at this time.

Step 3:

  Use a transit or line level to finish driving this second post so the top of the post is at the 

same height as the top of the first post.

Step 4:

 String a line between the two corner posts driven so far. Nylon mason's line is preferred as it 

can be stretched to get the sag out. If after stretching the line there is still sag, a support stake 
can be driven 1" from the side of the string line halfway between the posts. A 10d nail driven 
into the side of the stake will help support the line. The line should be exactly 1" down from the 
top of the post.

Now you will locate the other two corner posts.

Step 5: 

String a line the exact width of your shelter from the first corner. Use a transit to set this line 

square or at exactly 90


 from the first line. Drive a post in this 3rd corner but only a few inches 

deep at this time.


If you do not have a transit, use the 3-4-5 rule to square the line. Squaring 

is done by measuring 3' along one line and 4' along the other line from the intersection of two 
lines. The cross measurement should be 5'. If it is not 5' exactly adjust the lines and re-
measure from the new intersection. Any multiple of 3-4-5 will also work, such as 6-8-10 or 
12-16-20. Using a larger multiple will help create an accurate 90




Step 6:

 Repeat step 5 to find the last corner. Drive this post only a few inches deep at this time.

Step 7:

 Recheck the positions of the last two corners. They should be the exact length of your 

shelter apart. Also measure diagonally corner-to-corner. This measurement should be the same 
along both diagonals.

Step 8:

 With their positions located exactly and checked, finish driving the last two corners to the 

same height as the first corners.

Page 6


background image

  Section C - Driving Posts (optional, recommended)

Step 1:

 Attach a tape measure hooking it over the top of the first post and attaching it with tape. 

Run it down the long direction to the second post 

Step 2:

 Proceed to drive all the other posts in line spacing them 8' center to center using the tape 

measure. The string line should be 1" down from the tops of both corner posts. Drive the other 
posts so their ends are also 1" above the string line. This will put all posts at the same height. 


The tape measure should be long enough to measure the entire length of the shelter 

without taking it off the first post. This will prevent a compounding of errors. With this method 
you might be off on any given post, but the overall measurement should be right. 

A certain amount of care should be used driving your posts. Keeping your posts 8' center to 
center and vertical will make installing the rest of the structure that much easier.

Be sure to orient the pre-drilled holes in the posts as shown above to facilitate attachment to 
baseboards (optional, supplied by customer) if desired.

Cutting posts as a rule is not recommended as they act as the foundation for the shelter. The 
posts should be set into grade as indicated in the instructions. Exceptions do occur when a 
post cannot be driven far enough into the grade because of rock or ledge that cannot be 
broken through.

It is recommended that if the posts must be cut, first dig down to the obstruction with a 12" 
round hole. Turn the post upside down placing the top of it on top of the obstruction. Mark the 
bottom of the post at 1" above the string line and cut it on the mark. Fill the hole with concrete 
and set the post into the concrete in the same location that it is to be driven into. If the hole is 
shallow, dig it wide enough so that after the concrete hardens, it has good bearing against the 
soil. Do not erect the rafter on top of the post until the concrete is dry.

Step 3:

 Repeat the above steps to drive all the posts along the other side of your shelter.

Step 4:

 Finish by installing a ground post in the middle of each end at the same height as all others.

Page 7


background image

  Section D - Rafter Assembly

Step 1:

 Locate the 8 sections of pipe to make an end rafter. This will include (2) straight leg sections 

with angled ends, (3) curved sections, plus 3 straight sections to make the horizontal chord.

Typical End Rafter

Step 2:

 Position a socket T and cross coupling at the middle of the curved section that will become 

the peak.

Step 3:

 Position a socket T and cross near the top of each leg section just below the bend.

Step 4:

 Use (2) straight couplings to join the 3 curved sections together.

Step 5:

 Use straight couplings to join a leg to each end of the curved assembly.

Step 6:

 Assemble the chord using (2) swaged 99" pipes with (1) unswaged 58" pipe.

Page 8


background image

Page 9

Step 7:

 Install a 2 socket cross coupling at the middle of the chord.

Step 8:

 Connect the chord to the legs via the 3-way "Ts" previously installed.

Step 9:

 Repeat the steps above to assemble the other end rafter exactly like the one you just made.

Step 10:

 Assemble your inside rafters. These are similar, but do not have the horizontal chord or 

diagonal corner braces. Inside rafters have crossover fittings at the peak and just below the 
bends in the leg sections.

Typical Inside Rafter

Step 11:

 Add swivel sockets to the legs of both end rafters and 2 of the inside rafters. These will 

later be used to connect diagonal struts. Look at the frame drawing to approximate the 
locations of these couplings. On the legs of the end rafters, the should be a foot or so below 
the bend. On the two inside rafters they should go a foot or so up from the bottom ends.


background image

Page 10

  Section E1 - Rafter Setup (ground post method)


Step 1:

 Stand up one of your end rafters. Place the bottom of the rafter into the outside ground 

posts and secure with Tek screws through the post into the rafter. Install all of the rafters into 
the ground posts at this time. Finish with the other end rafter.

Step 2: 

When all the rafters are erected, check to make sure they are not corkscrewed. This is 

when half of the rafter is leaning toward one end of the shelter and the other half of the same 
rafter is leaning toward the opposite end. To correct this, simply push each half rafter in the 
direction it needs to go.

Step 3:

 Insert purlins (horizontal members) into the couplings at the peaks of the rafters and also 

at the tops of the legs. Tighten the rafter couplings as you go. Start with the plain end of a 99" 
swaged pipe. Continue to add more 99" swaged sections, and end with an unswaged section 
that is the correct length so the purlin assembly is the same length as your shelter.

Step 4:

 Recheck that every rafter is standing up straight (plumb) and that the rafter-to-rafter 

distance is 8' when checked at the peak and side couplings.

Step 5:

 When all rafters appear to be straight, tighten all the couplings.

Step 6:

 If this is a permanent installation, we recommend that you install a Tek screw at each purlin 

joint to secure the connection.


background image

Page 11

  Section E2 - Rafter Setup (without ground posts)

Step 1:

 Stand up one of your end rafters (one of those with the horizontal chord). Secure it to an 

existing structure if possible so that it is plumb. If you don


t have an existing structure, you can 

use some 2x4s as shown tied with rope:

Step 2:

 Insert the plain end of a 99" swaged purlin into the cross coupling at the peak of the end 

rafter and tighten the bolts. The end of the purlin should be flush with the outside surface of the 
coupling or the rough end of the purlin could damage the cover when it is installed later. Have 
an assistant hold the ridge purlin horizontal until the next step is completed.

Step 3: 

Stand up the next rafter (an inside rafter) and slide it onto the ridge purlin. Position it exactly 

8 feet from the end rafter and tighten the coupling. Your structure should stand on its own now.

Step 4: 

Add swaged 99" purlins at the tops of the legs just below the bends.

Step 5: 

Continue to add rafters (at 8' spacing) and purlin sections until your shelter is complete and 

you've finished with the other end rafter. The last purlin sections should be unswaged sections 
that are the correct length so the purlin assemblies are the same length as your shelter.

Step 6:

 Recheck that every rafter is standing up straight (plumb) and there is 8' between them when 

measured at the couplings.

Step 7:

 When all rafters are straight and plumb, tighten all the coupling bolts.

Step 8:

 If this is a permanent installation, we recommend that you install a Tek screw at each purlin 

joint to secure the connection.


background image

Page 12

  Section F - Install Diagonal Bracing Struts

Struts are supplied in your kit to brace your shelter. You would normally have a pair of struts at each 
end of the shelter running diagonally between the end and first rafter in.

Step 1:

 Assemble (4) struts using a 99" swaged pipe into a 12" unswaged pipe. If this is a 

permanent installation, secure the connection with a Tek screw into the joint.

Step 2:

 Install a diagonal strut assembly in each corner of your pavilion. Position them as shown 

between the swivel high on the end rafter and the swivel low on the neighboring inside rafter.


background image

Page 13

  Section G - Install End Verticals

Vertical members at both ends of your shelter are used to help support the ridge purlin. 

Step 1:

 Connect an 84" unswaged pipe to the bottom of the 2 socket cross coupling that was pre-

installed at the middle of the chord. If you used ground posts, the bottom of this pipe should be 
secured to the ground post in the same manner as the legs.

Step 2:

 Connect a 72" unswaged pipe between the top of the 2 socket cross of the chord to a 

socket T & cross coupling at the end of the ridge purlin.

Step 3:

 Check for any sharp edges on the frame and either file them smooth or wrap them with a 

layer or two of duck tape so they will not cut the cover.


background image

Page 14

  Section H - Install Main Cover Material

Step 1:

 To pull the cover over the frame, attach ropes to the cover at several of the grommets. 

Step 2:

 Throw the ropes up and over the frame and then pull the cover over the frame. You need 

one person at each rope for this step.

Step 3:

 Remove the ropes and position the cover evenly on all four sides.


Do not leave the cover unattended until it has been secured in all four corners.

Step 4:

 Secure the corners by using the Ball Tie Downs as illustrated below.

Step 5:

 Once the corners are fastened, place Ball Tie Downs through all grommet holes and loop 

around pipe as illustrated above.


background image

Page 15

  Section I - Install Optional End and/or Side Panels


Step 1:

   Optional End Panels and Side Panels are attached to the frame with Ball Tie Downs in the 

same manner as the Cover.

  Section J - Shelter Maintenance

Thank you for purchasing this ClearSpan


 Shelter.  Following instructions for assembly and proper 

care and maintenance of the shelter will ensure many years of exceptional performance.  The 
following notes include several items that need periodic checking.

• Cover must be kept taut; check and adjust tension periodically.
• Check connections and fasteners for tightness; replace and/or repair missing or damaged parts.
• Contact ClearSpan for assistance in identifying needed parts; call us toll-free at 1-



• If shelter is moved after construction, inspect shelter thoroughly before reuse.
• Do not allow snow to accumulate on the cover. Remove shade material before the snow season.
• Never attempt to climb on or stand on the shelter or its frame.
• Note that ClearSpan


 shelters (Truss Arch excepted) do not have any tested loading criteria.